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Category: I need comfort

Solo.

March 3, 2020March 3, 20202 Comments

Maybe this doesn’t happen in your house, but it does in mine: One member of our family works late or has sports practice or goes to an event and misses dinner. S/he must then forage for him/herself, alone in the kitchen, drawn as if by magic forces to cereal, chips, and the box of Thin Mints hidden in the freezer, eating directly from the container, shifting from box to bag, trying to get the satisfaction of having an actual meal, but in the end feeling slightly sick and entirely unsatisfied.

Familiar? OK; read on.

Occasional cooking for one is different from routinely having to prepare only one meal, solely for oneself. When there’s a routine, there’s a rhythm of shopping and prepping. Plus, there are actual cookbooks and meal delivery options dedicated to the cause. (If you’re the bookmarking type, there’s a wonderful 2017 round-up in bon appétit: “30 Healthy Recipes for One, Because You Don’t Need Anyone Else.“) (There is something sad about that title, though, isn’t there?)

When cooking for one person is the exception and not the rule, it’s somehow harder. The most important step, perhaps, is making a commitment to prepare something to eat, even if it’s a peanut butter sandwich. Sound ridiculous? Maybe it is; but it will be healthier, more satisfying, and less depressing.

Do not misunderstand here. Sometimes, for sure, a bowl of ice cream and glass of wine is just the ticket for a solo dinner. It feels downright rebellious and liberating, from time to time. But having a few other tricks in one’s repertoire is invaluable and also liberating, in a different way. There is power in preparing a meal, a feeling of accomplishment. This is not an unimportant consideration. Teach a child to make a fried egg or grilled cheese, and s/he will have newfound independence.

The go-to standards for solo cooking are, of course, eggs, chicken breasts, and salads. Eggs are the easiest option in most cases, particularly when the solo dinner is unplanned and using what’s on hand is a requirement. (Because who’s going to the store at 9 PM to get sumac and a can of chickpeas and a lemon and some kale to make an “impromptu” dinner for one? No one.)

Other options? African peanut soup or quick sesame noodles. White bean fritters, or white bean soup. Yes, all possible. Really.

More ideas:

I love to cook: The differentiator here is not time, but what is likely to be on hand. People who really enjoy cooking are more likely to have, for example, a variety of vinegars and oils in the pantry, a wider range of seasonings, and so on. Chicken paillards with red cabbage and onion slaw; avocado and arugula omelet; corn and chickpea bowl with miso-jalapeno tahini.

Weeknight reality: Cheese toast feels more indulgent than a cheese sandwich, and it’s almost as easy to prepare. Try it. If you have vegetables or fruit on hand, put some on the plate next to the toast to make the plate feel like an actual dinner (and because fiber is the magic food).

Need a miracle: If the siren call of cereal or potato chips or Thin Mints is too much to resist, then at least serve the food on a proper plate and sit at a table to eat. You’ll feel better, I promise.

One-pot.

February 18, 20204 Comments

The dividing line here is this: One either does or does not love cooking. For those who, in the majority, find cooking to be enjoyable, relaxing, rewarding, et cetera, read on. If cooking is the last thing you want to do, given a choice of things to do, then you’ll find little to like here (though the recipe links are at the end, if you just want to scroll down and have a look).

Still in? OK; let’s talk about one-pot dinners. They’re all the rage (see, for example, last week’s anthology from Sam Sifton: https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2020/dining/one-pot-meals.html). But it’s far from a new idea, as you already know.

If you are of a certain age, then you likely have a childhood memory of Crock Pots’ hitting the scene in the 1970s. The device, invented in the late 1930s and patented in 1940 as the “Naxon Beanery,” was acquired in the early 1970s by Rival Manufacturing, rebranded “Crock Pot” and marketed to liberated, working mothers who could plop in a roast and some carrots before heading to the office and have a perfectly-cooked family dinner ready when everyone got home.

Freedom from the kitchen and the chore of family dinner. What more could a woman want?

My mother (who opened a business in 1976 and worked until three months before she died), despised Crock Pots. To her the Crock Pot was the antithesis of cooking, a device that routinely produced either complete undesirables (warmed beans and franks), or pedestrian, messy, mushy goo (too often seasoned with Lipton Onion Soup). One was, in my mother’s estimation, either a cook or a Crock Pot user.

If my mother had lived longer, she might have come to appreciate the evolution of  cooking in a slow cooker (Crock Pot brand or not). Long hours at low temperature produce tender meats and flavorful stews, and when the technology and design of slow cookers advanced to give the cook some control, the devices regained popularity and found a place in gourmet home kitchens. (Of course, as Megan Elias wrote in Gourmet in 2012, “it still can’t fry an egg.”)

I have a slow cooker, and I enjoy using it for long-cooking stews (carne adovada, green chile chicken); but I don’t think of it as a time-saver. I have an Instant Pot, but like Karen Bertelsen, I do not love the Instant Pot.

What I do love is my big, heavy, cumbersone, 13.25 quart Dutch oven, purchased at a deep discount 15 years ago from the scratch and dent, discontinued-color rack at a Le Creuset outlet in Florida. I love it for preparing big meals that can be shared and for weeknight cooking. I love the even heating, steady temperature, and tall sides that keep things from splattering. I love the way it can bring together a sauté and a simmer (or a bake, or a braise), marrying taste and texture.

I’ll go out on a limb and offer that, if you select the right recipe, it doesn’t take much more time to use a Dutch oven than to use an Instant Pot, and the end result will be far more satisfying.

So, when you’re thinking of one-pot (or one-pan) weeknight cooking, and you’re the kind of person who actually enjoys cooking, then you are free to think about how using only one cooking vessel (or at least one main vessel, in which everything comes together) can be the key to the end result and not simply a matter of convenience.

That’s what’s actually great about the NYT round-up (ditto Martha Stewart’s collection). They are all (or mostly all) recipes that shine because of cooking in the same vessel, not in spite of it.

Here are a few others:

I love to cook: How about a decadent, spicy baked pasta? (OK, this is technically a two pot dish, because the pasta cooks separately, but everything else can start and finish in the Dutch oven.) Or maybe a lemon/brown butter version, while you might still find Meyer lemons? (Yes, this too is technically two pots; but the magic happens in the big heavy one.)

Weeknight reality: How about one-pot braised chicken with coconut milk, tomato, and ginger (served with naan or other bread instead of rice if you really want just one pot).

Need a miracle: Yes, you really can make either one of these in about 20 minutes: Chicken curry in a hurry; one-pot spaghetti with tomatoes and kale.

 

Hot air.

February 4, 2020Leave a comment

Feeling overwhelmed and frustrated by so much hot air all around? Take solace in cooking and let some hot air work to your advantage.

The most popular recipe I’ve ever shared, and the one that my friends continue to request, is this one for my mother’s cheese soufflé. (Note to the uninitiated: if you are looking for a formal, cooking school-type recipe and set of directions, then you’ll be disappointed by mine.) This classic French dish was my mother’s go-to recipe. It’s filling, protein-rich, relatively inexpensive (even when using really good cheese), and it’s surprisingly easy to make.

In my house, now, cheese soufflé is also a dinner staple. Everyone in my family loves it, and the leftovers are good cold the next day. Paired with a good, green salad, it makes for a well-rounded meal. And I swear to you, not only does a soufflé deliver more bang for the buck, it is also easier to prepare than its hot-air twin, the Dutch baby.

Given how much I love and rely on this dish, I’d been wondering to myself lately why I didn’t, like my mother, branch out and more often make other kinds of soufflés: chocolate or lemon or spinach or broccoli. So, I jumped in, using the David Tanis spinach pie recipe as a basis, only preparing it more traditionally by separating the eggs, beating egg whites and folding them in, and baking in a soufflé dish. For a chocolate version, I make a nice bittersweet ganache, beat in yolks (4-5), fold in beaten whites, and bake in a sugar-dusted dish. One day soon I’m going to make Mark Bittman’s lemon soufflé, but I haven’t ventured into it yet.

I’ve also been considering the vegan option for making a soufflé with aquafaba (garbanzo bean water), using the knowledge bank at America’s Test Kitchen as my resource. I’ll confess that I haven’t actually tried that approach yet, but in my experience you can take ATK to the bank. If they say it works, it works. If you’ve already made this leap, then this chocolate soufflé recipe might be right up your alley.

How is soufflé possible in a weeknight kitchen, you might wonder? In the simplest, weeknight-miracle version of cheese soufflé (advice courtesy of my sister), the time is all hands-off baking time – you don’t even have to separate the eggs or make a roux. Just dump it all in a mixer, plop it in the oven, and then have a glass of wine or go for a walk around the block or sit with your kiddo or significant other and have a nice visit while dinner prepares itself in your oven.

I love to cook: If you want official, formal instructions instead of my home-grown notes, and you have access to NYT Cooking, I suggest Martha Rose Shulman’s recipe. If you’re not an NYT Cooking subscriber, head to Epicurious. Serve with the Via Carota everyday green salad (the more labor-intensive version of the same salad, courtesy of Samin Nosrat, is another NYT link here).

Weeknight reality: One-bowl cheese soufflé; green salad of your choosing (add some fruit or blueberries, perhaps?)

Need a miracle: Same as above; you can do this.

 

The first cold night.

November 3, 20192 Comments

The first cold weather really does sneak up on our bodies (see: Here’s Why a 50-degree Day Feels Colder in Fall Than in Spring). While we’re getting accustomed to the lower temperatures, it’s the perfect time to warm the kitchen (and house, and people) with a hearty stew for dinner, yes?

Love to Cook: If you have the time, try Jacques Pépin’s beef stew (wisdom from the comments: boil it on the stovetop long enough for the alcohol to evaporate before covering and placing in the oven). For a vegetarian (could easily be vegan) version, how about a stew of giant lima beans (the Rancho Gordo beans are worth trying to find, or ordering online).

Weeknight Reality: This relatively quick version of green chile pork stew (45 minutes) is good – and even better the next day wrapped up in a burrito.  Another option might be Martha Stewart’s wine-braised chicken, which takes more time than a weeknight might allow, but it’s easy prep (and you can easily use a good spoonful of herbes de Provence instead of tying a fresh bouquet garni).

Need a Miracle: Have an Instant Pot? This spaghetti is foolproof, warm, and delicious. No Instant Pot? No problem: Make some couscous, and while it’s steaming, shred a rotisserie chicken (the go-to miracle dinner). Brown some butter (more than you think you’ll want) in a skillet, toss the chicken to coat; spoon over the couscous to serve, with some chopped some parsley or cilantro (or a mix of the two) on top. It’s not stew, but it’s warm and tasty.

Eggs

October 14, 2019October 7, 20191 Comment

the incredible edible egg

Eggs are inexpensive, versatile, easy to prepare and well-suited to a multitude of flavors. From simple scrambled or baked eggs to more complicated preparations soufflés or dishes that involve hollandaise, there is an egg recipe for virtually any dinner situation.

There are so many options, in fact, that it might be hard to pick one. Here are three options, all easy, and all perfect for dinner.

  • Love to Cook: Eggs Florentine with a green salad
  • Weeknight Reality: Shakshuka with warm pita bread
  • Need a Miracle: Scrambled eggs with fresh herbs and goat cheese, served with cinnamon toast

Recipe Links

  • Classic Eggs Florentine – BBC (about 30 minutes, but requires some cooking skill)
  • Oeufs en Cocotte Florentine – Craig Claiborne & Pierre Franey via NYT (about 40 minutes)
  • Shakshuka – The Tart Tart, adapted from Melissa Clark’s NYT recipe (about 40 minutes)
  • Shakshuka – The Tasting Table, adapted from John Gorham, Portland (about 40 minutes)
  • Simple Goat Cheese & Egg Toasts with Fresh Peas & Dill – Cookie & Kate (about 15 minutes)
  • Baked Eggs with Fresh Herbs & Goat Cheese – Oprah (about 15 minutes)

Parting Thought

“These eggs are broken. Cracked.”
“Yes, ma’am. That happens sometimes.”
“Does it?”
“Yes, it’s the unfortunate part of being an egg.”

Peter Hedges, What’s Eating Gilbert Grape (via goodreads)

 

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ideas for home cooks

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